The worst part about traveling is TRAVELING! At least in India! In south east Asia it was the best time to meet other backpackers and bond, while being shuttled around like cattle in the middle of nowhere, in hopes of arriving at your destination. But here, in India, I'm alone. Surrounded by few, if any, tourists. It also involves a LOT of waiting...waiting for the bus/train to arrive, waiting for the bus/train to get fixed, waiting to arrive at your destination! I have become quite used to the uncomfortable aspects of travel in India. The constant stares (my game has definitely helped!) And the constant phots being taken -I have a "game" for that one too. I take pictures of people taking pictures of me or pull weird faces...unless of course they ASK for a picture, then ill smile like a normal person!:) There are some things, however, which I don't think ill ever get used to. Number one on that list would be the disgusting clearing of the throat sound followed by spitting that ALL men AND women in India do:s I hear that sound everywhere and can't help but cringe everytime! I even hear it in restaurants! Where are they spitting?? :s I also can't seem to get rid of that nervous knott in my stomach everytime I depart one place and venture on to the next! Not knowing where I will sleep, if my bag will be under the bus still when I get to the otherside, IF I will even arrive, and if I do I'm hoping it's at a decent hour. Then there's always the hassel of getting from the station into town and not knowing how much to barter a rickshaw to! Its all a lot to handle and when you're doing it alone...its enough to make you crazy! BUT I wouldn't give it up for a second! I love traveling and if that's the price I have to pay so be it!:)
And so here I am...sitting in a little cafe waiting for my bus to Munnar...alone, nervous, but excited!
(Still would be nice to have someone to travel and share these memories with!)
Friday, April 27, 2012
Thursday, April 26, 2012
The Backwaters of Kerela
I arrived in Cochin, Kerela at 430am tired and hopeful that this would be a great place. With so few tourists around, when one is spotted you are instantly drawn to each other! That being said, I met a great friend, Jon, from England! Thankfully he had already booked a place to stay...since its 430 in the morning, dark, thunder storming, and nothing is open, so I tagged along! :p I just have to add, Kerela is already seeming like a QUIET place! Only a few honking horns! (And the time of night really doesn't make a difference in this country!)
Fort Cochin is a very small ancient town. There are old Chinese fishing nets which are still being used, and buildings resembling Dutch and British arcitechture. A weird mix of things but somehow it all fits together quite nicely! And Fort Cochin is QUIET and peaceful and just what I was hoping for!!! (In a country like India you need to find these little places in order to keep your sanity!)
The next day Jon and I headed further south to Alappuzha where we planned to do the backwaters trip. The backwaters is the main attraction to Kerela. It is a network of waterways 900 km off the southern coast of India. We decided to spend the day on a Canoe going through these water canals. I was very worried about spending 6 hours on a canoe in this extreme heat but we somehow managed to pick the BEST day to do it. Since it had thunderstormed the night before the air was a bit cooler and the sky was a bit cloudy! PERFECT for a trip like this! We would have died otherwise. It was just the two of us on this tour and our guide took us into his village along the backwaters. It was really incredible! We ate amazing traditional Kerela cuisine and enjoyed the company of the children in the village. We then sat back and enjoyed the peaceful and beautiful surroundings as we paddled through the backwaters surrounded by kingfishers, rice fields, jungle forest and watersnakes. It was everything I'd hoped for and more!
It's been so nice having company the past couple days and being able to have a normal conversation which doesn't consist of the same 3 questions: Name? where you from? Are you married? Traveling alone can be very stressful in India! Especially as a solo female traveller. Unfortunately Jon is on his way back to England now so I'm back on my own...but excited for the next adventure!
Next stop...the tea plantations in the hills of Munnar! :D
Fort Cochin is a very small ancient town. There are old Chinese fishing nets which are still being used, and buildings resembling Dutch and British arcitechture. A weird mix of things but somehow it all fits together quite nicely! And Fort Cochin is QUIET and peaceful and just what I was hoping for!!! (In a country like India you need to find these little places in order to keep your sanity!)
The next day Jon and I headed further south to Alappuzha where we planned to do the backwaters trip. The backwaters is the main attraction to Kerela. It is a network of waterways 900 km off the southern coast of India. We decided to spend the day on a Canoe going through these water canals. I was very worried about spending 6 hours on a canoe in this extreme heat but we somehow managed to pick the BEST day to do it. Since it had thunderstormed the night before the air was a bit cooler and the sky was a bit cloudy! PERFECT for a trip like this! We would have died otherwise. It was just the two of us on this tour and our guide took us into his village along the backwaters. It was really incredible! We ate amazing traditional Kerela cuisine and enjoyed the company of the children in the village. We then sat back and enjoyed the peaceful and beautiful surroundings as we paddled through the backwaters surrounded by kingfishers, rice fields, jungle forest and watersnakes. It was everything I'd hoped for and more!
It's been so nice having company the past couple days and being able to have a normal conversation which doesn't consist of the same 3 questions: Name? where you from? Are you married? Traveling alone can be very stressful in India! Especially as a solo female traveller. Unfortunately Jon is on his way back to England now so I'm back on my own...but excited for the next adventure!
Next stop...the tea plantations in the hills of Munnar! :D
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
mySORE headache
SO... going to Mysore I was expecting a quiet little town similar to Hampi. That's at least the impression I got from all the Bangalore locals who said they escape the hussle and bussle of city life in Mysore. My trip started off great (on an AC bus!) But quickly went south! Unaware that Mysore was NOT the last stop, and without the stops being announced I just assumed everyone was going to Mysore and I'd know when to get off! (This was not the case...) So somewhere outside of Mysore the bus suddenly stops, when they realize I am still on! and I'm literally thrown off the bus! So the mySORE headache begins...Thankfully it was a decent hour and not the middle of the night on some random road out of the city! I managed to get a rickshaw back to Mysore and settle in a decent hotel.
I then went out to explore a little and get my ticket to Cochi sorted so I could then relax. Well...relax is not a word I would ever associate with Mysore. At least not in my experience! No one would help me find the bus stand...they would just wag their head and point me in random directions! And so the headache just grew...as I managed to get lost in the small town of Mysore. On top of it all it was insanely hot and probably the loudest uncontrollable honking and shouting I've experienced in India so far! (That MIGHT partly be due to the massive headache I had since my arrival!) When I finally found the ticket stand I decided I'd already had enough of Mysore and would leave the following day to Cochin!
By the time the next day arrived my headache was almost unbareable! I couldn't wait to get out! But only in a place like India can you hate a place so much and in an instant fall inlove with it again! While I was waiting for the bus I stopped in at a cute little chai shop to read and relax. It was perfect! And had the nicest, cutest little old man who ran the place! I had peace and quiet, endless amounts of chai tea and great food!
As I got on my overnight bus to Cochin I was so relieved to be leaving but a little part of me was sad that I had such great expectations for a place and been let down! I think the best lesson learnt here is to have NO expectations! As hard as that is... Expectations leave room for disappointment.
I then went out to explore a little and get my ticket to Cochi sorted so I could then relax. Well...relax is not a word I would ever associate with Mysore. At least not in my experience! No one would help me find the bus stand...they would just wag their head and point me in random directions! And so the headache just grew...as I managed to get lost in the small town of Mysore. On top of it all it was insanely hot and probably the loudest uncontrollable honking and shouting I've experienced in India so far! (That MIGHT partly be due to the massive headache I had since my arrival!) When I finally found the ticket stand I decided I'd already had enough of Mysore and would leave the following day to Cochin!
By the time the next day arrived my headache was almost unbareable! I couldn't wait to get out! But only in a place like India can you hate a place so much and in an instant fall inlove with it again! While I was waiting for the bus I stopped in at a cute little chai shop to read and relax. It was perfect! And had the nicest, cutest little old man who ran the place! I had peace and quiet, endless amounts of chai tea and great food!
As I got on my overnight bus to Cochin I was so relieved to be leaving but a little part of me was sad that I had such great expectations for a place and been let down! I think the best lesson learnt here is to have NO expectations! As hard as that is... Expectations leave room for disappointment.
Friday, April 20, 2012
Here and There
It was sad to leave Hampi! Its the first time since I've been in India that I really felt comfortable and at home! I could easily have spent a few more weeks there:) Its so nice and peaceful, which is rare in a country where honking your horn every second is part of driving! But after a while I finally booked my first train ticket to Banglore!
I was so excited to take a train! Everyone's told me its so much more comfortable and the views are amazing! Its a must do in India! Well...if by comfortable they were referring to the wood plank bed too close to the ceiling to sit up then they were right! Ugh...SO comfortable...Thankfully I'm small enough to fit on these beds, I feel sorry for anyone taller then me!
Once all settled on my plank bed I realized I was lucky enough to have NO window! So there goes my view of the landscape! I did, however, have a bed facing 6 other beds...so for 10 hours I had 12 eyes on me, watching my every move!
For those of you who aren't aware, all Indians have a staring problem! Its not like they stare and when you stare back they look away (like normal people) they continue to stare at you for seconds...minutes...even HOURS! It's not a malitious stare (usually) and It's just something I've had to deal with. Normally it doesn't bother me too much, but when I am hot and tired and sleeping on a wooden plank the LAST thing I want is to be stared at like I'm a zoo animal!
I've developed a game, mainly to keep my sanity, to cope with the stares. When they stare, I stare back...as serious as possible! When they look me up and down I look them up and down! Now if I were to play this game in any other country it wouldn't last long...but here...well it can go on for quite a few minutes! I've had many hours of practice and have become quite good :) However, this game doesn't work well on a train...where you are stuck for 10 hours with no where to go! It actually makes things more awkward and uncomfortable! -I found this out the hard way.
I arrived in Bangalore, the IT hub of India! My first impressions weren't so good! It was hectic, loud, smelly, expensive, and terrifying! My first reaction was RUN! Thankfully I didn't though! I met up with a friend of a friend, Catherine and had my first "couch surfing" experience! It was incredible! By the end of the week I felt as if I lived here!
As much as I hate cities, there's something comforting about them- at least while I'm traveling. There's almost always a guarantee that whatever you need can and will get done in a city. You can't always get that in small towns. BUT regardless, I don't think I could have stayed too much longer there! So now I am on my way to Mysore! A small town south of Bangalore. Fingers crossed its as good, if not better then Hampi!:)
I was so excited to take a train! Everyone's told me its so much more comfortable and the views are amazing! Its a must do in India! Well...if by comfortable they were referring to the wood plank bed too close to the ceiling to sit up then they were right! Ugh...SO comfortable...Thankfully I'm small enough to fit on these beds, I feel sorry for anyone taller then me!
Once all settled on my plank bed I realized I was lucky enough to have NO window! So there goes my view of the landscape! I did, however, have a bed facing 6 other beds...so for 10 hours I had 12 eyes on me, watching my every move!
For those of you who aren't aware, all Indians have a staring problem! Its not like they stare and when you stare back they look away (like normal people) they continue to stare at you for seconds...minutes...even HOURS! It's not a malitious stare (usually) and It's just something I've had to deal with. Normally it doesn't bother me too much, but when I am hot and tired and sleeping on a wooden plank the LAST thing I want is to be stared at like I'm a zoo animal!
I've developed a game, mainly to keep my sanity, to cope with the stares. When they stare, I stare back...as serious as possible! When they look me up and down I look them up and down! Now if I were to play this game in any other country it wouldn't last long...but here...well it can go on for quite a few minutes! I've had many hours of practice and have become quite good :) However, this game doesn't work well on a train...where you are stuck for 10 hours with no where to go! It actually makes things more awkward and uncomfortable! -I found this out the hard way.
I arrived in Bangalore, the IT hub of India! My first impressions weren't so good! It was hectic, loud, smelly, expensive, and terrifying! My first reaction was RUN! Thankfully I didn't though! I met up with a friend of a friend, Catherine and had my first "couch surfing" experience! It was incredible! By the end of the week I felt as if I lived here!
As much as I hate cities, there's something comforting about them- at least while I'm traveling. There's almost always a guarantee that whatever you need can and will get done in a city. You can't always get that in small towns. BUT regardless, I don't think I could have stayed too much longer there! So now I am on my way to Mysore! A small town south of Bangalore. Fingers crossed its as good, if not better then Hampi!:)
Friday, April 13, 2012
Birthday Bliss!
My birthday began somewhere between Goa and Hampi on a long, uncomfortable overnight bus journey. These bus trips are much worse then those that I experienced in south east Asia. They drive faster, more recklessly and the conditions of the road are also a million times worse. (It's best not to eat too many samosas before one of these trips!) As an added bonus, there was a terrible thunderstorm which we had to travel through. Don't think for a second that that would slow the driver down though! With all the excitement of the bus ride i'm sure you can imagine I didn't sleep much...
When I arrived in Hampi (thankfully in one piece) and settled into a beautiful little guesthouse within the Hampi bazzare I was already a million times happier then any minute of my time in Goa! I had a big room, with no weird Russian neighbours, and a roof top restaurant which overlooks one of the many beautiful temples here! This place reminds me a lot of the Angkor Temples in Cambodia, except that the village is in and amongst the temples itself! Absolutely beautiful! To make things even better I ran into my friend Peter from Mumbai! Already I knew I wasn't going to spend my birthday alone anymore :)
After a POT of chai masala tea, I went to do some much needed meditation! (shopping- one of my favourite forms of meditation!) I stuffed my face with all my favourite Indian dishes and wondered around the beautiful town. This was just what I wanted! For dinner I met up with Peter and two Swiss girls and we had a lovely meal while watching the sun set behind the temples! They surprised me with a traditional Karnataka cake with a candle and I was even sung Happy Birthday in 3 different languages! The owners of this little guesthouse were also so sweet and friendly about my birthday, they too came and joined us for cake! (they are STILL wishing my happy birthday haha) It was a wonderful day and I wouldn't have changed a thing...although, I am still craving that glass of red wine! (Hampi is a sacred temple city and is strictly alcohol and meat free)
I just wanted to take a moment now and thank everyone for the birthday wishes! It is really nice to know that no matter where I am in the world I am always surrounded by so much love! <3
When I arrived in Hampi (thankfully in one piece) and settled into a beautiful little guesthouse within the Hampi bazzare I was already a million times happier then any minute of my time in Goa! I had a big room, with no weird Russian neighbours, and a roof top restaurant which overlooks one of the many beautiful temples here! This place reminds me a lot of the Angkor Temples in Cambodia, except that the village is in and amongst the temples itself! Absolutely beautiful! To make things even better I ran into my friend Peter from Mumbai! Already I knew I wasn't going to spend my birthday alone anymore :)
After a POT of chai masala tea, I went to do some much needed meditation! (shopping- one of my favourite forms of meditation!) I stuffed my face with all my favourite Indian dishes and wondered around the beautiful town. This was just what I wanted! For dinner I met up with Peter and two Swiss girls and we had a lovely meal while watching the sun set behind the temples! They surprised me with a traditional Karnataka cake with a candle and I was even sung Happy Birthday in 3 different languages! The owners of this little guesthouse were also so sweet and friendly about my birthday, they too came and joined us for cake! (they are STILL wishing my happy birthday haha) It was a wonderful day and I wouldn't have changed a thing...although, I am still craving that glass of red wine! (Hampi is a sacred temple city and is strictly alcohol and meat free)
I just wanted to take a moment now and thank everyone for the birthday wishes! It is really nice to know that no matter where I am in the world I am always surrounded by so much love! <3
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Ups and Downs
What I have come to realize most while traveling is that it is not always as happy and bright as one may think. As in life you have ups and you have downs. In order to have true happiness you need to experience the sadness, the loneliness, and anger. In my last few days in India I have experienced a mixture of emotions.
I went on a slum tour through one of India's largest slums, Dharavi. A city within a city. This shanty town was amazing to walk through. The organization of this slum was impressive! They had a recycling center, leather making center, residential areas and even a "main street" with shopping centers. Anyone walking through this area without a guide is surely to get lost! Seeing the children was what really got me. They seemed completely oblivious to the state in which they lived and made the best of what they had! They were happily playing cricket in the small bit of garbage fields with sticks and a rubber ball. And everyone of them were so excited to see us and speak to us, with huge smiles on their faces. Genuine smiles! The warmness in these smiles is one to warm anyone's heart. No one tried to sell us things, or beg for money as we walked through their homes either. It was truly an experience that pulls at my heart, and one that I will never forget.
While in Mumbai I felt it very necessary to go to a new release of a Bollywood Film. This was an experience in itself! Never have I been to the cinema where the audience is so engaged with the film. People were constantly laughing, whistling, screaming and clapping. Their energy alone made this a very memorable experience! The film itself was a little difficult to follow (since it was in Hindi-no subtitles) but for the most part I THINK I understood it :)
After a few days in Mumbai, I feel I have settled into the swing of Indian culture. I have become a lot better at crossing the street, and ordering my own food, as well as bartering. So off I went to Goa...to some beautiful beaches!
Goa was not as I expected. Figuring it's the Indian holiday season, I really didn't feel like being harassed by a million drunk Indians on vacation! So heading south seemed like the best idea for some peace and quiet. I managed to find a nice little resort on the beach. Since my arrival however, I didn't get one moments rest. If I wasn't being harassed by the locals, it was by the drunk Russians staying at the resort. I am constantly harassed by Indian men here, and I am slowly getting used to that. I can brush them off and walk away, but when they (the Russians) live in the rooms next to you its a little more difficult to avoid. Every time I tried to leave or do anything there they were slurring their words and making inappropriate comments. When I managed to get away from them all I wanted was a nice cup of tea, to sit by the beach and read. Well, just my luck...the resort seems to have run out of MILK! So no tea. No friends. No wine! This has probably been my lowest low so far. Feeling so alone, on a beach, with no one to talk to and no tea! Not the way I was hoping to spend my birthday :(
After what has been quite a low for me, I decided I wasn't even going to give Goa a chance. I packed my things and went into town to book a bus to Hampi. Once the bus was sorted I needed some healing...some delicious massala chai tea. Feeling slightly more positive that things will get better I am off to Hampi tonight, where HOPEFULLY there will be some foreigners my age. (Fingers crossed)
There will always be ups and downs, and getting through these downs is part of the learning experience. When I get to these points I just keep telling myself...I am in India...INDIA!! And already a small smile appears on my face :)
p.s. Anyone feeling the need to fly to India is more then welcome to join me...would love the company!
I went on a slum tour through one of India's largest slums, Dharavi. A city within a city. This shanty town was amazing to walk through. The organization of this slum was impressive! They had a recycling center, leather making center, residential areas and even a "main street" with shopping centers. Anyone walking through this area without a guide is surely to get lost! Seeing the children was what really got me. They seemed completely oblivious to the state in which they lived and made the best of what they had! They were happily playing cricket in the small bit of garbage fields with sticks and a rubber ball. And everyone of them were so excited to see us and speak to us, with huge smiles on their faces. Genuine smiles! The warmness in these smiles is one to warm anyone's heart. No one tried to sell us things, or beg for money as we walked through their homes either. It was truly an experience that pulls at my heart, and one that I will never forget.
While in Mumbai I felt it very necessary to go to a new release of a Bollywood Film. This was an experience in itself! Never have I been to the cinema where the audience is so engaged with the film. People were constantly laughing, whistling, screaming and clapping. Their energy alone made this a very memorable experience! The film itself was a little difficult to follow (since it was in Hindi-no subtitles) but for the most part I THINK I understood it :)
After a few days in Mumbai, I feel I have settled into the swing of Indian culture. I have become a lot better at crossing the street, and ordering my own food, as well as bartering. So off I went to Goa...to some beautiful beaches!
Goa was not as I expected. Figuring it's the Indian holiday season, I really didn't feel like being harassed by a million drunk Indians on vacation! So heading south seemed like the best idea for some peace and quiet. I managed to find a nice little resort on the beach. Since my arrival however, I didn't get one moments rest. If I wasn't being harassed by the locals, it was by the drunk Russians staying at the resort. I am constantly harassed by Indian men here, and I am slowly getting used to that. I can brush them off and walk away, but when they (the Russians) live in the rooms next to you its a little more difficult to avoid. Every time I tried to leave or do anything there they were slurring their words and making inappropriate comments. When I managed to get away from them all I wanted was a nice cup of tea, to sit by the beach and read. Well, just my luck...the resort seems to have run out of MILK! So no tea. No friends. No wine! This has probably been my lowest low so far. Feeling so alone, on a beach, with no one to talk to and no tea! Not the way I was hoping to spend my birthday :(
After what has been quite a low for me, I decided I wasn't even going to give Goa a chance. I packed my things and went into town to book a bus to Hampi. Once the bus was sorted I needed some healing...some delicious massala chai tea. Feeling slightly more positive that things will get better I am off to Hampi tonight, where HOPEFULLY there will be some foreigners my age. (Fingers crossed)
There will always be ups and downs, and getting through these downs is part of the learning experience. When I get to these points I just keep telling myself...I am in India...INDIA!! And already a small smile appears on my face :)
p.s. Anyone feeling the need to fly to India is more then welcome to join me...would love the company!
Friday, April 6, 2012
Mumbai!
I am truely loving my experience of India so far! If it weren't for my new friend Inder (the waiter) I don't think I would be enjoying it so much! He has helped me with bartering, ordering food, showing me the sights and most importantly helps me cross the street! Half the time I have no idea what Inder is saying, where is he taking me, or what he has ordered but it has all been INCREDIBLE! Yesterday we went to watch the sunset at the beach and I even had my first local train experience! One experience I surely would not have had, had I not made an Indian friend! I was the ONLY non-indian in the entire train station! I was treated like a celebrity :) (numerous pictures and staring eyes) Inder and I went shopping where I managed to get 2 pairs of shoes, a ton of bangles, 2 shirts, and a silk scarf for less then 10 dollars! I also managed to set up my phone so calls are always welcome! :) (9769906539). If I had attempted all this on my own I would have paid ten times the price! (I know because I tried earlier in the day by myself very unsuccessful!) When I got home last night I made my first non-Indian friend! Yay!! We decided to share a room today to save on costs when SURPRISE...bedbugs! I have never packed so fast in my entire life (Em you would be very impressed!) We are now spending 3 times what we WERE paying, but staying in such a nice YWCA. It includes breakfast, dinner, a newspaper, bed time TEA and free wifi! (Any place that serves bed time tea is a FANTASTIC place in my books!) My new friend and I are off to explore more of the city (and hopefully get picked up by some bollywood film scouts). And for those of you who have read Shantaram, I am heading to Leopolds for drinks tonight!!! :D
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
So here begins my Solo travels
I arrived in Mumbai, India last night. Had a minor incident with checking into my hotel but thankfully it was all sorted and I didn't have to spend my first night on the streets! This morning, after a wonderful Indian breakfast which consisted of what I have called "breakfast samosas" -spiced potato balls which you put in a bread roll with a mint curry- I got a knock at my room. It was one of my waiters who was so excited to teach me Hindi that he came to write down some words for me! He then offered to quit his job for the 2 months that I am here and travel with me as my friend/guide! WOW talk about nice...but as much as I would love to have a guide, I need to do this on my own! Plus, 2 months is a long time to be stuck with some guy I just met! I did however take him up on spending the day around Mumbai together! Hopefully all goes well!!
HERE WE GO! Day 1 in India...please don't be a scary one! (WIsh me luck)
A Taste of Pai to Koah San Pad Thai
Pai was a little slice of heaven! Just what Emily and I needed as we approached the end of our journey through South East Asia together! It was almost too good to leave, and if we had the time, we probably would still be there. We fell in love with Yellow sun in Pai bar, where we befriended the chef, Tee. He generously took us to a local food market where we bought ingredients and he taught us how to cook all the delicious Thai dishes! Green curry, Red curry, Penang curry, Spring rolls, Tom-Yam, Pad thai! Look out world, we have some new Thai chefs!
After Pai we headed "home" to Bangkok. Back where it all started on Koah San Road! It was nice to end in the same place where it all started 2 and a half months ago! We stuffed our faces with as much Pad Thai, had a few Changs and ate some crickets! :S YUMMMM! It has been such a great experience so far traveling through South East Asia with one of my best friends! Meeting all the amazing people and being able to experience it all with someone was really something special! I am sad to say goodbye to Emily now but I know she has so much exciting things to look forward to when she gets home!
-I will miss you oodles and oodles like pad thai noodles <3
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)